Thursday 29 May 2014

Traversing No Man's Land

Tomatin 35 1978 - Cadenhead Small Batch - 44.1%


Old gold

Admittedly, I'm not the most experienced of whisky drinkers, but I've found that the world of independent bottlings can be a bit of a minefield. Certainly, there are some bottlers out there that consistently release fare that rarely disappoints (and occasionally sparkles). However, you can also fall victim to bottles of dross that have been matured in tired barrels and pepped up with weird, but not always wonderful, cask finishes. This is where the internet can come in bloody handy. This 'series of tubes' has amplified exponentially the power carried by word of mouth . To put it another way, in the information age, reputation is king.


Over the past four years, I've managed to plough my way through the independent whisky scene without ever stumbling into a dram bottled by Springbank's WM Cadenhead, a bottler with a very good reputation. I'd also managed somehow to sidestep trying any independent releases of Tomatin, despite being very impressed by virtually every distillery release I'd got my hands on. So, when given the chance to kill two birds with one nosing glass, I jumped at it. 

Huge thanks to Ben Cops for the sample; the biggest Tomatin-head I know.


Nose:
Classic Tomatin profile and still showing signs of youth, when considering the age. Heather and red peppers to kick off, with a wave of caramel soon to follow. A little time to develop brings a rich creaminess and a mild stearate note. Lovely and complex.

With water, the nose becomes quite fruity with glace cherries and toffee enveloped in a light smoky blanket.

Palate:
Instant hit of grapefruit. Cedar followed by old leather; reminds me of my old headmaster's study. The wood is certainly not shy and there's a touch of astringency, although this is more from the citrus than the wood. Challenging and yet immensely enjoyable. The more this opens up, the more I'm reminded of some of the older OB Highland Parks.

The introduction of water forces the citrus into a corner, amplifies the other flavours and introduces a sweet, spearmint note. Towards the end there's more grapefruit, light ash, white pepper and walnuts.

Finish:
Mild pepper, star anise and drying wood.The ghost of the grapefruit makes an appearance; slightly bitter but warming. Impressively long and keeps you coming back for more.

The finish is somewhat hampered by water but overall the whisky doesn't suffer as a result.

Thoughts:
Powerful and complex. Not immediately accessible but a little persistence is rewarded by a thoroughly enjoyable experience. If this is any indication of what Cadenhead has to offer, count me in.

Grade: A
One to sit back and savour.

Sunday 25 May 2014

Blind Taste Test - The World Whisky Challenge

Six whiskies, six countries, two contestants and no clue.


A little while ago, while reviewing the quite horrendous King of Scots, I made mention of a game I play with a few friends on a semi-regular basis. We take turns playing host for an evening, during the course of which the guests are presented with six mystery drams, cunningly contained in cobalt nosing glasses to conceal the colour. Each guest will scribble down some tasting notes, give the dram a rating out of ten and have a stab at stating the ABV, region, type etc. At the end of the tasting the host will do the big reveal and we all have a laugh at how useless we are.


Some of the more recent events have had a theme, combined with a prize at the end for anyone accurate enough to place each of the six in their appropriate category. For example, a few months back I put on a 'Regions of Scotland' tasting with a dram of the Master of Malt 50yo Speyside for anyone who could match all six drams to their regions. It's actually a lot harder than you'd imagine and needless to say nobody managed to get all six. On the bright side, I enjoyed the prize dram very much when everyone had gone home.

Fast forward a couple of months and I find myself taking the position of host once more. This time however, the evening has a more global flavour as I look to present my guests with six mystery whiskies from six different countries; Scotland, Ireland, England, Wales, Japan and the USA. For anyone shrewd enough to get all six correct, a sample of the rather lovely (and rather appropriate) Orbis World Whisky awaits. Let the games begin......


The Contestants

The rugby mad, cask-strength connoiseur....

Drinks like a man, laughs like a girl


Keyser Soze has nothing on this guy......

COMMENT DELETED


Dram One


Cecil Norris

Nose:
Soapy to begin with, followed by lemon sherbets. Floral as it develops with foam sweets to follow.

Palate:
Smooth, dry and bland.

Finish:
Short and uneventful.

Thoughts:
Not getting much from this. I'd say it's probably a blend, probably 40% and I'd give it 4/10.

Country:
WALES


Agent X

Nose:
Fruit salad with pineapple and sour apples. Coconut butter and banana chips, followed by those milk bottle sweets you used to get as a kid. Raisins towards the end.

Palate:
Starts off with a chalky, bitter note but develops into honey, fudge and nutmeg. There's an artificial banana note under there somewhere too.

Thoughts:
It's all a bit 'Coffey Still' and a little grainy. I'd say it's around 46% and it's 6/10 for me.

Country:
JAPAN



Reveal


Not the best of starts for the two boys. Cecil was on the money with the ABV but both were fooled as to the origin of this tricksy Irish malt. Looks like the Orbis is mine.


Bad start for both lads



Dram Two


Cecil Norris

Nose:
This smells exactly like the previous one. My nose is all over the place today. After a while I'm getting some ketchup and gherkins but that's about it.

Palate:
Ok, I'm getting a little more on the palate. There's some smoke here and a little peat. It's beefy and slightly spicy.

Finish:
Medium in length and quite mellow. It's what I'd call chewy.

Thoughts:
I must admit, I'm struggling. It's a little beefier than the first one so I'll say 50% and I'd give this one 6/10.

Country:
USA


Agent X

Nose:
Straight away there's peat. A little coal in there, some marker pens, tarmac and, after a while, some pears.

Palate:
Iron. Fresh green fruit, a little mint, camphor and some definite peat.

Thoughts:
I initially had this down as Japanese from the nose alone but the palate has changed my mind. I like this though. I reckon we're talking 46% and I'd give this 8/10.

Country:
SCOTLAND



Reveal


Agent X must be kicking himself for changing his mind, the peat was a bit of a curveball. Cecil is starting to show signs of cracking and he's looking a bit glum. Still, neither chap is off the mark and the competition is still wide open. 



Ouch. Two swings, two misses



Dram Three


Cecil Norris

Nose:
Oh for God's sake. This is just like the other two. Erm, I don't know, sweet and fizzy perhaps.

Palate:
Sherbet, oak and spice. Either these are awful drams or I'm having one hell of an off-day.

Finish:
Long and still fizzy.

Thoughts:
*sigh* I reckon this is probably around the 51% mark and I'd give it 5/10.

Country:
ENGLAND


Agent X

Nose:
Corn. There's flour, honey...it's like a bowl of porridge. After a while I smell ketchup and some fruit, there's an oily note and some Liquorice Allsorts to finish.

Palate:
Stewed apples, mincemeat (the Christmas kind), marzipan and cherries.

Thoughts:
Smells a bit like Glen Grant Major's Reserve but doesn't taste like it. Probably around 46% and I'd give this 8/10 too. Very nice.

Country:
IRELAND



Reveal


Although Agent X was bang on the money when it comes to ABV, the despondent Cecil pulls a blinder and gets the country right. Is this merely a blind squirrel finding a nut or has he been kidding us all along?


Cecil draws first blood


Dram Four


Cecil Norris

Nose:
Soapy but sweet, with an alcoholic nip. Not much else, I'm afraid.

Palate:
Chewy and quite woody. This is painful.

Finish:
Long and a little harsh.

Thoughts:
I don't know. 55%? 5/10 for me.

Country:
JAPAN


Agent X

Nose:
Oranges. Huge Cointreau note with orange zest, gin and a honeysuckle aroma. As it develops, there's juniper there too.

Palate:
Icing sugar, almonds and glace cherries. A fair amount of bourbon and some oak there too.

Thoughts:
I really like this. There's a lot going on here. I'm going to say 50% and I'd give this 9/10. This is where you tell me it's Penderyn, yeah?

Country:
WALES



Reveal


A screamer from Agent 'I hate Penderyn' X. Not only has he got the country spot-on, he's done the ABV too. Alas, lightning has not struck twice for Cecil. Honours even with two drams to go.

Drama! Agent X equalises!


Dram Five


Cecil Norris

Nose:
Ugh. Sweet.

Palate:
Mellow and fruity.

Finish:
Long and dry.

Thoughts:
This is no longer any fun. 55% and 6/10

Country:
SCOTLAND


Agent X

Nose:
Rhubarb and ginger to start with plenty of bourbon. Parley, black pepper and oak. There's a certain vegetal note there too.

Palate:
Liquorice, cinnamon and cola. It's quite drying with cloves and it has an almost chewy quality.

Thoughts:
I'm quite confident here. If this isn't American, I'll be amazed. I reckon it weighs in at around 54% and I'd give this 7/10.

Country:
USA



Reveal


Agent X doubles his tally late in the game and takes the lead. Cecil is really not on form today, blaming anti-histamines; we're going to send him backstage after the tasting to get checked over by the St. John's Ambulance guy.

Another for Agent X! 



Dram Six


Cecil Norris

Nose:
Shame.

Palate:
Excuses.

Finish:
Yeah, about four whiskies ago.

Thoughts:
60%. 6/10

Country:
IRELAND


Agent X

Nose:
Pine, apples and furniture polish. Grapefruit and limes with a buttery vanilla cream after a while.

Palate:
Loads of green fruit with kiwis standing out. Soapy with a light ginger note towards the finish.

Thoughts:
Not the best I've had tonight. Quite strong; I'd say around 57%. I'm going to give this one 6/10.

Country:
ENGLAND



Reveal


Despite looking utterly distraught, Cecil has come within half a percent of the ABV; not bad at all. Ultimately, the Speyside heavyweight foxes both of our boys, leaving a mere three correct answers between them.

Agent X hangs on for the win.


Summary:
A solid attempt from both contestants, proving that blind tasting can unseat even the most experienced drammer. Any comments, chaps?

Cecil: "I just couldn't perform tonight. It's like taking a beautiful lady home from the pub, bending her over the table and nothing happens. So disappointing."

Agent X: "No comment. Why are you writing this down? Stop that! Seriously, stop writing! I'm out of here. Code Red! Code Red!"


Final Score


Agent X takes advantage of Cecil's handicap to claim bragging rights

Wednesday 14 May 2014

Maltal Combat III - Battle of the Glens

Glendronach Cask Strength vs Glengoyne Teapot Dram vs Glenfarclas 105

50% extra free

Whoever perfected the art of distillation was a genius. Whoever then decided they should mature said distillate for a number of years in sherry barrels was an even bigger genius. Whoever then decided to bottle it at ludicrously high strengths, sell it to me and get me squiffy on a Monday night is a genius of such magnitude they may well herald the salvation (or destruction) of mankind.

You’ll have to forgive my excitement; you see, as well as having a penchant for all things peated, I’m a huge fan of big flavours in general. If you peer into my collection, amongst the coastal bruisers and phenolic haze you’ll often find cask-strength, high-octane sherry bombs. It’s fair to say that you won’t find many subtle whiskies lurking within the Stumblevault.
A particular favourite at this moment in time is the Glengoyne 21yo. While not particularly strong, it’s a flavourful riot of sherry, malt and oak with a finish that goes on for days and, despite what some prissy little princesses with dainty palates will tell you, it’s in no way over-oaked.

Anyway, enough of such tish and nonsense. The latest bout in the Maltal Combat series shines the spotlight squarely on sherried monsters of phenomenal strength and flavour, with hues that exude menace and that snort derisively at the notion of an age statement. In keeping with the exaggerated nature of this contest, we’re going to bump things up a notch; we’ve got three of the buggers.


Glendronach Cask Strength – Batch 1 - 54.8%

Nose:
Instantly I’m getting a slightly youthful aroma but this is soon replaced by toffee, caramel and butterscotch. A little time to open up brings crème caramel with a sprinkling of cherry bakewell.

Palate:
A wee alcoholic nip to begin with but I put that down to starting on a clean palate. Butteriniess is evident on the palate with pecans and a moderate amount of freshly-struck matches. This is not unpleasant though, in fact I’d say the savouriness adds another dimension. Towards the finish there’s a hint of bitterness creeping in that’s a little disconcerting. Otherwise, this is very drinkable, even at natural strength.

Finish:
Hmm, a bit of a let-down. Medium in length, mildly drying and a tad flat. There’s moderate spiciness but it’s all a little understated; not what I’m looking for in a dram of this nature. As the finish fades, there’s that bitterness again.

Thoughts:
Surprisingly drinkable, tasty and enjoyable. I expected a little more oomph on the finish and the bitterness was a little unwelcome but still a very capable malt.

Grade: B
Falls short of greatness but, despite its flaws, there’s still a lot of flavour here. I’d be very interested in sampling later batches.



Glengoyne Teapot Dram – Batch 002 - 58.5%

Nose:
This is more complex than the previous whisky. Rich with vanilla, black pepper, glacé cherries and almonds. Give it a while and milk chocolate with roasted hazelnuts make an appearance.

Palate:
Definitely more grown up than the Glendronach. Complex and wonderfully rich with damsons, apricots and red peppers. Lovely, silky mouthfeel; a little time on the tongue  allows the oak to make an appearance. Enjoyable, with entertainment all the way from arrival to finish.

Finish:
Doesn’t disappoint. Warm and long with spice and wood aplenty.  Just when you think it's over, the warmth floods back over the sides of your tongue for a final bow. Very satisfying.

Thoughts:
Nowhere near as approachable as the Glendronach; you might need your big-boy pants for this one. It’s a distillery exclusive bottling so availability may be a factor but, on taste alone, it’s a cut above.

Grade: A
I was going to mark this down when considering the availability and relative price but a friend reminded me that I should be focussing on the quality. Easily the winner…so far.



Glenfarclas 105 - 60%

Nose:
Less sherry than expected and quite closed when compared to the other two. Fair old sting in the nose as I try to sniff deeper; weighing in at 60% I really should have known better. Time to breathe gives a fruity aroma but not the fruits I was expecting. Peaches, toffee apples and caramelised pears are the major players here. Further time in the glass rewards mewith a cafe latte note.

Palate:
Dry and fiery to start; there’s a good amount of pepper here. This develops into an earthiness that puts me in mind of some cognacs and, after the fireworks have died down, I'm amazed at how smoothly it delivers its strength. As it develops further, it displays toasted nuts and fresh figs. As we approach the finish the whole affair becomes a little floral with violets being the most detectable aroma.

Finish:
Lingering, with a lively, entertaining pepperiness. Less wood than I was expecting but the earthy nature of the palate continues way into the finish and adds a savoury element, bringing a nice balance.

Thoughts:
A very good, lively whisky. It may lack the approachability of the Glendronach and the rich complexity of the Glengoyne but that earthy, savoury, almost cognac-like note makes it so beautifully intriguing.

Grade: A
Certainly better than the Glendronach. The question I ask myself though is, on taste alone, is it as good as the Glengoyne?



Damn your deliciousness

Glengoyne Teapot Dram (Split Decision)
This was incredibly tough. Every fibre of my being was yelling ‘Glenfarclas, you arse! It’s only forty notes’. However, in my opinion, the Glengoyne is the better whisky and wins the fight.


Go and buy the Glenfarclas.

Friday 9 May 2014

SMWSS – The Scotch Malt Whisky Society Stumble

19 Greville St London EC1N 8SJ


About a week ago, a chap by the name of Tom Thomson (Twitter handle: @ifotou - whisky blogger, Twitter wizard and all-round good guy) tweeted a morning coffee picture. In the picture was an unassuming white mug carrying a rather special logo.


Admit it, it's pretty.


What started with a simple photograph of a mug, ended five days later on a Tuesday afternoon with yours truly staggering his way through Central London carrying a backpack full of goodies.


For those of you yet to discover the delights of this rather curious society, the Scotch Malt Whisky Society is a purveyor of whisky in its purest form. They select a cask from a distillery by way of a tasting panel, barrier filter the contents and bottle it. That’s it. Single cask, cask-strength, unchillfiltered and no added colour; in short, the whiskies they sell have been fiddled with less than an ugly nun. Yeah, yeah, yeah Johnnie, get off your soapbox; are they any good? Well, I have yet to come across one that has been anything short of good and some have been verging on spectacular. Certainly worth a look – www.smws.co.uk - anyway, I digress. 

Back to Tuesday and just around lunchtime, I wander into the Society’s London Rooms located a stone’s throw away from Farringdon station. After a brief chat with Joe McGirr, the SMWS London Venue Manager, and pledging my allegiance to the clan………


Whisky Blaggard in Shameless Selfie Shocker!


….. I put myself in Joe’s capable hands and began my SMWS tasting session.


Linkwood, 23 years, 59.1%, ex-bourbon
39.98 Butterflies, bats and spiders.

Nose:
Fruity, floral and oozing with honey. Not so sure about the name as this is more like sugar, spice and all things nice. A little time to develop brings golden syrup with blackcurrant jam and damsons.

Palate:
Imagine an apple turnover stuffed full of Bounty bars and you're not too far off. Apples, pears, coconut, golden syrup, cherry bakewells; this is a symphony of confectionery. If I was to be critical, this may be a little too sweet for some. However, as a first dram, it's going down very well.

Finish:
Medium-long and warming. Some spicier elements in the mix now - cinnamon, cloves and a touch of black pepper. Some woodiness but nothing too astringent. It's just savoury enough to add some balance to the whole experience.

Thoughts:
Can't fault Joe on his choice. A great start to the session and it's got me fired up. There's a lot of substance to this whisky, although it's a bit on the sweet side. The finish rescues the whole affair by adding a little contrast and you can't fault the nose.

Grade: B
If you have a sweet tooth, this is a no-brainer.




Longmorn, 28 years, 58.7%, ex-bourbon
7.100 Hawaiian holidays.

Nose:
Simply incredible. Heavy, dark fruits with a wonderful rum-raisin quality. There's nothing light or delicate about this. My God, the nose is almost chewy. Black cherries and overripe grapes. I'm almost scared to taste it.

Palate:
Sweet and sticky with a hefty dollop of spice that warms and warms and warms. Oily mouthfeel with spurts of redcurrant jelly and cinnamon rolls. A drop of water dampens the fire and brings the fruit into focus. Cherries, sticky candy and a hint of sherbet nearing the finish. Something akin to old school Refreshers and a dab of Parma Violets.

Finish:
Long, hot and sticky like a Tuesday in July. Wood, spice and a pleasant drying finale.

Thoughts:
A little more grown up than the Linkwood and, although sweet, more balanced too. In spite of this, somehow I find myself not liking this as much as its predecessor. Maybe it's because the palate doesn't quite live up to the nose. To be fair, the nose was so sublime, I'd have been flabbergasted if it could. A little heavy for my personal taste but a great whisky nonetheless.

Grade: B
Worth trying just for the nose alone. I can see why some people would love this.




Glenlossie, 20 years, 53.7%, ex-bourbon
46.24 Dumplings in a honey sauce. 

Nose:
Big contrast when compared to the previous two whiskies. Heather honey with vanilla, orange zest and what I believe to be a hint of sea spray, which is a little puzzling. A little time and the nose gets quite creamy with a toasted almond and sesame seed aroma filtering out.

Palate:
Big surprise. This is not what I expected from a Glenlossie at all, which is a little arrogant of me considering I've never tried one before, but still. Sweet and savoury by turns. More heather honey with a coastal quality and a creamy bay leaf/coriander element that puts me in mind of good Ben Nevis or, to a  lesser extent, Clynelish. If this is what can be expected from this distillery, sign me up. Definite flashes of honey and vanilla but weighted in favour of the honey. Wonderful balance as the palate is sweet without being cloying and astringent without being bitter. Oily mouthfeel but a sticky, treacle texture every now and again. This is hugely enjoyable.

Finish:
Long, balanced, drying, warm, woody.....everything you'd want from a finish. Lovely stuff.

Thoughts:
This is massively floating my boat. Hits all the right notes for me. I'm a big fan of Clynelish and some Ben Nevis bottlings and this shares a certain quality with them which ticks all my boxes.

Grade: A
Never any doubt in my mind. I'd happily buy a bottle of this, which is why I did.




Port Charlotte, 11 years, 66.7%, ex-sherry
127.39 Intensely tasty.

Nose:
Death and destruction, but in a good way. Charred wood, smoke and dragon's breath. Don't get your nose too close to the glass; this one bites back. Fleeting farmyard aroma that reminds me of Kilchoman. Give it a few moments and there's a delicious brininess and a freshly fried fish note.

Palate:
A bonfire explosion. Smoky, dry and astringent. This is savoury all the way with a good deal of pepper; feisty in all the right ways. Weighing in at 66.7%, I think this would benefit from a few drops of water. After a while and a slug of water the palate is more restrained but no less tasty. A sweetness begins to develop with a burnt, honey-glazed gammon taste. A little while longer and orchard fruits make an appearance with sharp, crisp juicy apples taking centre-stage.

Finish:
Long, peppery and a little tart. A good level of astringency which keeps you coming back for more. There's an elegance here that you wouldn't expect, given the bruising nature of the whisky.

Thoughts:
Yeah, it's not subtle, but it's massively entertaining. By no means a one trick pony; there's real substance and flavour to be found once the shouting has died down. I shall certainly be keeping an eye out for future releases.

Grade: A
I wanted to buy a bottle of this but it had sold out. Booooo!


Final Thoughts:
Huge thanks to Joe and his team for their hospitality and to Tom for planting the seed. My bank balance may not be happy but on an afternoon like this, how could I not be?



Cheers!